The bronze Angel of Užupis statue blowing a trumpet atop a column, backed by a blue sky and the red-tiled rooftops of the district

Užupis: A Guide to the Bohemian Republic Inside Vilnius

Greta Vilčiauskaitė
Greta Vilčiauskaitė
5 min read

On April 1, 1997, a small district just across the Vilnelė river from Vilnius Old Town declared itself an independent republic. It picked up its own flag, its own currency, an army of around a dozen soldiers, and — the detail everyone remembers — a constitution nailed to a wall for anyone to read. The date was not an accident. Užupis takes itself exactly as seriously as a republic founded on April Fool's Day should, which turns out to be seriously enough to mean something.

A republic the size of a neighbourhood

The whole territory covers barely 0.6 square kilometers, home to something like 7,000 people, tucked into a bend of the Vilnelė that separates it from the Old Town proper — the name itself simply means "beyond the river." It had a rough reputation before artists started moving in during the 1990s, drawn by cheap rundown housing and the kind of neglect that leaves room for reinvention. The self-declared republic that followed was equal parts genuine community identity and performance art, and Vilnius has never quite decided which parts are which — which is, most likely, the point.

The constitution on the wall

The Constitution of Užupis was written by Romas Lileikis and Tomas Čepaitis, reportedly drafted in a matter of hours, and it now runs to 41 articles plus three closing mottos: "Do not defeat, do not fight back, do not surrender." It is displayed on a wall along Paupio gatvė as a series of engraved plaques, one language per plaque, and new translations keep getting added — the count has climbed past forty over the years, from Lithuanian and English to Sanskrit and Hindi. The articles range from the practical to the whimsical to the genuinely moving: the right to be unique, the right to be idle, the right to love and not love a cat, the right to make mistakes, and — added more recently — a line acknowledging artificial intelligence, making this likely the first constitution anywhere to do so.

The Angel of Užupis

The district's unofficial symbol went up on April 1, 2002, exactly five years after independence: a bronze angel blowing a trumpet, standing on a globe atop a tall column just off the main square. Sculpted by Romas Vilčiauskas, it was raised partly in memory of Zenonas Šteinys, an artist and longtime resident credited with helping pull the neighbourhood out of decay in the first place. Locals will sometimes tell you the angel's arrival was inspired by a suggestion from the Dalai Lama, who has visited Užupis and been made an honorary citizen — a nice story, whether or not it's the literal origin.

A flag for every season

The republic's other running joke is its flag — or rather flags, since Užupis flies a different one for each season, the color and symbol changing as the year turns. It's a small detail, but it captures how the whole project works: institutions borrowed wholesale from real statehood — flag, anthem, cabinet of ministers, even a small standing army of around a dozen — repurposed with just enough sincerity that visitors are never quite sure whether they're looking at satire or civic pride. The first constitution plaque, for what it's worth, wasn't even installed on Paupio gatvė originally; it went up at Užupio kavinė, a bar that served as the district's unofficial headquarters in the earliest days of the republic.

What it actually feels like to walk through

Strip away the mythology and Užupis is, block for block, one of the more visually interesting parts of Vilnius: mismatched facades, mermaid sculptures, sudden bursts of street art, a scatter of small galleries and studio spaces, and cafés that spill down toward the riverbank in summer. It's often compared to Montmartre for the same reason — a historically poor, half-abandoned district that artists colonized and then, eventually, gentrified, so that today's version is more polished than its founding myth suggests. The Bernardine Cemetery at its edge, established in 1810, adds a quieter, older layer to the neighbourhood, home to graves of painters and academics predating the republic by well over a century.

Visiting Užupis

There's no border checkpoint in any real sense, though on April 1 each year — Užupis Day — you actually can get a passport stamped at the bridge, with music, food stalls and a genuinely festive crowd filling the streets. Any other day, it's simply a ten-minute walk from the Old Town across one of several small bridges, worth doing slowly: read a few articles of the constitution, find the angel, and let the district's slightly absurd self-mythology do the rest of the work.

Greta Vilčiauskaitė

About the author

Greta Vilčiauskaitė

I'm a Vilnius-born travel writer and food enthusiast. I've spent a decade mapping the capital's courtyards, markets, and trailheads — and I still discover something new every week.

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